|Fujifilm X-pro1, ISO 800, f/8, 1/70sec.|
|Fujifilm X-pro1, ISO 400, f/8, 1/500sec.|
|Fujifilm X100s, ISO 800, f/2.8, 1/30sec.|
|Fujifilm X100s, ISO 200, f/5.6, 1/480sec.|
I was very happy with the perfomance of the X100s in street shooting situations, especially in very crowed areas where the 23mm (35mm FF) lens gave me enough space and distance to my subjects. Also the autofocus was very fast in good light, and good enough even in dimmer light. Often I carried both my X-pro1 with 35mm (53mm FF) lens and the X100s.
Why I missed a zoom and wide angle lens
Well, being on vacation for four weeks in a country like Thailand, that's full of exiting photograpy opportunities, I was missing a zoom lens simply because just one, or two, focal lenghts just don't cover it all. Sure, if you're only into street photograpy, then a 35mm and 50 mm will do just fine. But, during four weeks there's a lot to do and see! Like going on a speed boat trip with other turists, the captain is not going to get you close enough to whatever you like to take pictures of when the rest of the passengers have their zooms out and admire everything from a distance. Or when the nature, scenery, just begs for a wide angle lens... Here's a shot that I took borrowing my wifes Canon 600D and the EF-S 10-22mm wide angle lens (luckily she brought her gear too for our trip to Thailand...)
|Canon 600D+EF-S 10-22mm@10mm, ISO 800, f/11, 1/30sec.|
This place is called the Blue Pool, and can be found near the Emerald Pool, in the jungle near Krabi, Thailand. Because of the heavy vegetation, I needed to bump up the ISO to 800 on the Canon to get a decent shutter speed. I didn't have a tripod, and shot hand held. I wish I had a wide angle lens for my Fujifilm X-pro1! Either the10-22mm wide angle zoom which is rumoured to be out later this year, or the XF 14mm f/2.8 which is already out and getting very good reviews.
Fuijfilm x100sBUT - there's a big but in here... I really really love my Fujifilm X-100s for street photography. I will never sell it. I carry it with me everywhere I go, every day. Here's a few samples, again from the market in Khoksamrong:
|Fujifilm X100s, ISO 800, f/5.6, 1/60sec.|
|Fujifilm X100s, ISO 6400, f/8, 1/50sec.|
|Fujifilm X100s, ISO 6400, f/8, 1/90sec.|
|Fujifilm X100s, ISO 1600, f/4, 1/125sec.|
|Fujifilm X100s, ISO 400, f/4, 1/125sec.|
It will be interesting how much the autofocus improves with the coming firmware update for the X-pro1, and also if the focus peaking for manual focus will be as good as on the X100s. The update is coming on July 23. You can read about it here on DPReview.com.
Fujifilm X-pro1Ok, except for the two at the top, that's a lot of Fujifilm X100s pictures... So, how about the X-pro1 - well, here's a few samples, Fujifilm X-pro1 with the XF 35mm:
|Fujifilm X-pro1, 35mm (53mm FF), ISO 3200, f/11, 1/900sec.|
|Fujifilm X-pro1, 35mm (53mm FF), ISO 1600, f/8, 1/750sec.|
|Fujifilm X-pro1, 35mm (53mm FF), ISO 1600, f/8, 1/550sec.|
|Fujifilm X-pro1, 35mm (53mm FF), ISO 200, f/8, 1/300sec.|
|Fujifilm X-pro1, 35mm (53mm FF), ISO 800, f/4, 1/4000 sec.|
|Fujifilm X-pro1, 35mm (53mm FF), ISO 1600, f/11, 1/1100 sec.|
|Fujifilm X-pro1, 35mm (53mm FF), ISO 400, f/8, 1/125sec.|
|Fujifilm X-pro1, 35mm (53mm FF), ISO 400, f/4, 1/500sec.|
|Fujifilm X-pro1, 35mm (53mm FF), ISO 800, f/8, 1/450sec.|
As you can see, the ISO is pushed up pretty high for some of these shots, even when you might not think it's necessary to have those shutter speeds. But some of these shots are taken with me sitting on the back of a motorbike (my wifes doing the driving) - either while driving - or standing still but with the engine still on - making camera shake.
In good light the X-Pro1 autofocus is just fine. In an earlier post in this blog I said that it's not that big difference between the newer X100s and the X-Pro1 - but working with them for weeks now, I have to say the X100s is much faster. The X-Pro1 is still ok, it just needs to get used if you're coming from a dSLR because it's contrast detecting (and not phase detecting like the dSLR's), and if you're aiming at the edges of your subject like you'd might do with your dSLR, then sometimes it will focus on your background instead if it's more contrast there. So, aim straight at the middle of your subject. Sometimes it will miss or not lock on if there's not enough contrast. If so, then try finding something at the same distance with some patterns/texture/more contrast on it.
In low light and in the night? Well... you'll have to wait for part II for reading about my Fuji's in real low light situations in Thailand. There'll be some pictures from the night market in Hua Hin and some shots from very early in the morning.